Things I liked:
Beautiful landscapes and awesome on-location cinematography. (Getting over my knee-jerk aversion to pictorial beauty in cinema.)
A very small scale story, a village melodrama shot in a way which gives it an almost cosmic significance. Opening sequence in which Charles meets Rosy, we see them from way up above, almost like a God's POV.
Robert Mitchum playing against type.
Maurice Jarre's music jars a little (okay, may be more than that) but after 3 hours of constant humming it will get inside your soul. (Like Dr. Zhivago)